Having rebuilt itself after a decade-long civil war in the 1980s, and again after two devastating earthquakes in 2001, El Salvador still can't shake its reputation as the most dangerous country in Central America.
It's not necessarily the threat of earthquakes that keeps visitors away. Nor is it the strong currents and undertows that can make Pacific Coast waters perilous, even for strong swimmers. It's true that in backcountry areas, unexploded land mines pose serious risks to hikers and backpackers. But knowledgeable tour guides keep tourists well out of harm's way.
El Salvador's biggest deterrents exist in and around the congested capital, San Salvador, where petty street crime, carjackings and armed assaults are common.
So why visit Central America's smallest nation when the U.S. State Department warns of a ``critical crime threat'' to travelers? Hardcore surfers are drawn here by some of the world's best waves. A few intrepid travelers, like me, come for a curious getaway.
BLENDING IN
After my plane landed at Comalapa International Airport, I hopped in a taxi for the 45-minute ride to San Salvador. Thieves have been known to target well-heeled tourists at the airport and follow them to isolated stretches of road where robberies are then carried out. To avoid unwanted attention, I wore jeans and a T-shirt. My unassuming backpack was filled with bare necessities.
If potential crime is a detriment to tourism, affordability is a huge selling point. The InterContinental San Salvador -- an elegant four-star hotel, the likes of which I can rarely afford -- offers deluxe rooms for as low as $63. At local eateries away from the hotel, a basic meal costs less than $4.
And don't worry about the exchange rate. In January 2001, El Salvador adopted the U.S. dollar as its primary currency. The previous currency, the colon, is basically obsolete. All ATMs issue dollars.
In my search for a quiet beach, the hotel concierge recommended that I use a tour guide rather than hire a taxi or rent a car. He suggested Nahuat Tours, a local agency with a stellar reputation.
Whether it's climbing volcanoes or deep sea fishing, Nahuat offers more than 20 different sightseeing and adventure tours. You can visit coffee plantations and learn how El Salvador's most valuable export is harvested. Or stop by Joya de Ceren, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and gaze upon the ruins of ancient Mayan homes.
The country boasts pyramids and volcanic lakes and wonderful nature reserves, such as the Impossible National Park, a refuge for wild animals and exotic trees. (``Impossible'' may sound like a strange name. But during the last 30 years, nearly 98 percent of El Salvador's forests have been stripped.)
Roughly the size of Massachusetts, El Salvador occupies about 8,000 square miles of mountainous terrain. The compact dimensions mean that visitors are never far from the beach.
LA COSTA DEL SOL
My tour guide, Sergio, drove past verdant volcanoes and ramshackle ranches on the one-hour drive to La Costa del Sol, the best calm-water beach in the country. Here, on the wide expanse of dove-gray sand, I found what I was looking for: solitude.
There were no banana boats motoring across the gentle waves. No parasailing, no Jet Skis, no man-made diversions. Only desolate beach for as far as one could see. In fact, during my day at La Costa del Sol, I saw no more than 15 or 20 souls -- all at a generous distance.
I spent my time soaking up sun, frolicking in 78-degree water and watching eared grebes circle overhead before plummeting with a splash into the fish-laden sea.
La Libertad is quite another story. Located only a half-hour from San Salvador, its rolling breaks attract throngs of surfers and the youthful beach culture that follows in their wake. Think reggae music, swaying hammocks and cold beer.
I almost signed up for a class at Punta Mango Surf Trips. In addition to classes, the company offers guided surf tours, custom surf packages and ``surfaris'' to the best surf breaks.
But surfing is a dangerous game. I had successfully navigated a trip to El Salvador and didn't want to press my luck.
Source: miamiherald.com/
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